On the Globe » Caribbean

Leaving the ghetto

andrew princz — Thu, 26 May 2011 12:36:39 +0000

Jamaican-born reggae and dancehall musician Papa San moved to gospel when his life spun out of control. Photo © Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com JAMAICA

In Jamaica, a creative life offers an escape from a cycle of violence

(Montego Bay) When Jamaican-born reggae, dancehall and gospel singer Papa San took the stage of the Fun in the Son festival in Kingston earlier this spring, it might have been a homecoming of sorts. Like many artists from here who were raised in a rough and tumble environment, escaping a life of violence and excess was a long journey. But it was one that has always leads him back to the hustle of the grimy streets of his hometown.

In this island-nation, music, art and creativity born in the yoke of the ghetto are more than symbols of liberation and freedom. They are its key.

“Music somehow elevates you out of that lifestyle and takes you on a different road,” says Papa San, who was born Tyrone Thompson. The artist who is known as Jamaica’s fastest lyrical speaking DJ began his journey to fame from the area of Spanish Town not far from the capital, Kingston. This is where he flourished as a teen in talent shows and contests.

“You get to success and everything becomes right because there are a lot of yes-men around you,” he says, “Then you start making terrible mistakes by just having the money and the friends who defend it.”

A precarious rise to fame
Papa San describes his early climb from the precarious streets to an environment that fed by an addictive lifestyle that enmeshed him into a dangerous world of clan-politics, excessive womanizing and violence. It was that context which ended up costing the lives of friends, relatives and even several of his siblings.

Ultimately, it lead him to a downward spiral. His Rastafarian grandmother raised Tyrone Thompson, and throughout his career – which has spanned over two decades he has adopted more musical styles than most artists would in a lifetime. He began as a dancehall DJ, went on to find acclaim in reggae, and finally left the secular world to settle into a devout life of faith and songs of praise.

His signature style today is best described as high-octane Gospel, paired with his private hosting of bible readings in his Florida home. His audiences adore him, revere him, and even mime every word of his miles-an-hour lyrics. A concert of Papa San is a happening enraptured by an electric energy that results in tears, and audiences who are so electrified that they seem to take in the music from a trancelike state.

“When I go to a show there are a lot of guys walking behind me, and they are all from the ghetto,” he says, “But they are just walking with the artist. Everything you do is with a mindset and that is the mentality that is still that of a ghetto person.”

Elgo, the renaissance man in Montego Bay
On the far side of the capital of Kingston are the azure blue-oceans of Montego Bay. On the outskirts of the tourist trail is a small, cram packed art gallery. This is where another Jamaican artist with a mission sits vigil. Errol Lewis, known as Elgo, is a painter, a poet, a merchant, a traveller, a businessman, an art dealer and a spiritual voice.

While he too has brought his own art out of the constraints of the economic realities that many Jamaicans face, his mission is very much rooted in a desire to give dignity to a people whose history is weighted by a legacy of slavery and suffering.

Cycle of violence penetrates art, as seen in one of Elgo's own paintings. Photo © Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com JAMAICA

“I don’t think that the struggle has ended,” says Elgo in a quiet and determined tone. “It has continued in a very subtle and undefined manner. But the nuances and tentacles of mental slavery remain. This is what Bob Marley sang about, about using music to open the eyes of the world. Art speaks eloquently and silently.”

As we talk, Elgo glares at one of his own paintings depicting an anguished mother from whose breast drips bullets falling directly into the barrel of a gun. The work reflects the painful dilemma of Jamaican mothers whose nurturing love confronts the gangland society of murder and violence that has enveloped in the inner-city streets of this country’s ghettos.

Ultimately, he laments, Jamaica has become plagued by a philosophy of extreme economic violence.

For his part Elgo hones the memory of his own African roots and nourishes the creative talent of the black artists of Jamaica. He was inspired by a trip to Ghana, where disappointedly he realized that black artists be they in Dadowa, Ghana or Kingston, Jamaica were left in a different league by a society rooted in sustenance and survival, unready to actually pay for their cultural product.

Creating a market
“What was interesting there was that the Africans were not interested in purchasing or looking at art. They would often come into the gallery and ask if they could eat the artwork. It was as basic as that,” he recalls of his attempts at running an art gallery outside of Accra, the capital of Ghana.

When he returned to Jamaica he was introduced to a man that was said to have been the cousin of Pablo Picasso, to whom Elgo put a burning question in his mind. Why, he asked, did European artists get millions for their paintings while he was unable to name single black artist who would fetch similar amounts? A half our later the man returned earnestly and told him, “It is for you to set the standard, the ceiling for your culture.” The answer inspired Elgo to a mission.

While the works of European artists like Pablo Picasso were negotiable, almost a bankable instrument, the same value system didn’t follow for the black artists of Jamaica. He would create the market, he reasoned.

“Essentially what that gave me was an impetus to look at the business of art,” says Elgo, “I have vowed to see that at least one black artist secured $ 1 million US for a painting, either in their lifetime or before my death. That mission is on my way. “

Like a one-man cooperative Elgo promotes both his works and those of his fellow Jamaican artists, even giving them international reverberations at an important international contemporary art fair in Miami. While many of the works in the gallery are of the lower price brackets, some visitors are surprised when he comes up with local works priced from $ 25,000 to $ 125,000.

Errol Lewis, known as Elgo, is a painter, a poet, a merchant, a traveller, a businessman, an art dealer and a spiritual voice. Photo © Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com JAMAICA

Leaving Jamaica
But for Papa San, fame and fortune as a reggae star didn’t provide him with the solace that he might have sought. He made millions, he says, but also lost millions. He lived an up and down lifestyle, losing over forty of his friends, and two of his brothers by gunshot. He hit rock-bottom.

“When I reached the end of my road I looked around me and said that something is not working,” Papa San recalls, “I could have ended up in prison or been killed many times. I lost one of my brothers at that time and I tried girls here or there. It never worked for me, I was at the end of my rope and was ready to give my life to Christ.”

“When God really talked to my heart about giving my life to him, music was really the last thing on my mind.”

Within an environment where people were killing, shooting and fighting, music suddenly lay somewhere in the middle. But as much affection that the had for his homeland, Papa San then chose to move on from the political violence and strife, and he now lives in Miami. He left his old friends, accepted Christ into his life, and started over.

“I forgave those who killed my brothers,” says Papa San, who began a new life, embracing a life of faith, “I lived with three different girls, cut them off I cut off on that very day, I settled down with the mother of my child who is now my wife. I never looked back. I have no taste to.”

Meandering from the pulpit

andrew princz — Wed, 19 Jan 2011 19:18:12 +0000

New directions for gospel emerges in Barbados, comedy to jazz

(Bridgetown) Finding oneself among throngs of believers singing songs of praise on the Caribbean island of Barbados was decidedly uplifting. The atmosphere at the Sunset Concert of Gospelfest in Barbados was a stark contrast to the urban secularism and its cynical attitudes towards just about any firm beliefs. Here dozens of youthful artists from local church groups to artists from neighboring islands of the Caribbean; or even the Toronto-based group, YungSaintz, who performed their songs of praise that encouraged youthful audiences to go to church, ‘as you are’.

But what was even more surprising was that gospel here was more than swaying masses singing hymns to Jesus. Here music melded with the history of the island. Gospel was presented side-by-side the suave notes of a jazz musician or the questioning comedy of a wisecracking dummy called Woody, the sidekick of a hard-hitting Atlanta ventriloquist.

Youth acquiring ‘ministries’
In Barbados, I discovered, gospel had meandered from the preacher’s pulpit. Young and old artists acquire ‘ministries’, acting out their devotion in a variety of forms. These ministries even talk about subjects as diverse as divorce, loneliness or the Christian-Muslim divide.

“In the Caribbean gospel music is culture and their form of expression,” says Rodney Sammy-Guilarte, Managing Director of the Trinidad-based Acts25 radio station, himself scouting talent at the festival. “For too long people pictured Christian life as a kind of a utopian lifestyle.”

The actors at this gospel event range from the electric Jamaican one-time reggae and dancehall artist turned gospel-singer Papa San, to Cashewna Bishop, an island resident who stricken with autism overcame her affliction only to develop her ministry in the form of a powerful performing voice.

“What they don’t realize is that we feel pain, hurt, and suffer just like everybody else. For us, gospel is about moving beyond that,” ads Sammy-Guilarte.

In contrast to the North American scene where gospel music has developed into a prosperous industry that speaks to both secular and devout audiences; gospel in Barbados is still a grassroots, community phenomenon that emanates from local communities.

Here gospel is present in the form of choirs at churches, dance or theatrical groups. Ministries here are generally part-time ventures shared in places of worship, during festivals and special events.

From jazz to gospel
Barbadian singer and songwriter Kellie Cadogan, like many artists made her way to gospel after years working as a jazz singer in front of secular audience. Re-committing herself to her faith leads her to seek gospel audiences and performing largely to devout crowds.

“In taking that step I wanted to continue to do my jazz, but do a crossover like gospel-jazz,” says Cardogan.

“I am not strictly a gospel singer because I sing other styles of music as well. But my jazz is always inspiring and positive,” she says, “But gospel is always about a personal experience.”

Jazz tones also came in the form of the soulful saxophone of the US-based Antonio Allen, who played at several events over the nine-days of Gospelfest. The crescendo was the devotional concert “Awesome”, a more traditional mass choir of over a hundred performers who brought many in attendance to tears.

For deeply devout Barbadians, Gospel starts in the hundreds of churches that dot the island landscape and spreads through radio call-in shows.

A landscape of contrasts
This verdant island reveals contrasting tones from its high-end hotels, golf courses and restaurants characterize the gated western coast, while the wind-beaten eastern shores of the island include small villages and open landscapes that reveal the English colonial history.

Small chattel houses are still common, reminders of the islands history under slavery. These houses were built for freed slaves who were forced to move quickly from one plantation to another on the whims of plantation owners.

“I try to be real because we live in a real world and you have to bring real issues to people for them to pay attention,” says comedian turned gospel ventriloquist Willie Brown, whose gospel comedy touches on raw notes. “When you are doing comedy – especially Christian or gospel comedy, you are on a tightrope.”

Willie Brown’s performance is gritty with his main character ‘Woody’ is a hip young sharp-mouthed wise-cracker. He and his sidekick talk in a down-to-earth tone about family, homelessness, or even current events themes like the Muslim-Christian divide. Together they perform regularly in churches, colleges, theaters and comedy clubs throughout the US.

“I do have references to the bible and some material about Jesus, which makes it gospel comedy,” says Brown the morning after his performance at the Divvy Southwinds Beach Resort, “Christians really need to laugh because they can be really uptight. They need to know that they can have fun too.”

Gospelfest 2011 will take place between May 21-29, 2011, and will be headlined by Cincinnati-born Gospel artist William McDowell whose album As we worship features the popular anthem, “I give myself away so you can use me”. The event consists of concerts, choirs and performances throughout the island. For more information call [246] 426 5128 or visit http://www.barbadosgospelfest.com.

Cashewna Bishop, an island resident who stricken with autism overcame her affliction only to develop her ministry in the form of a powerful performing voice. Photo © 2010, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com

Cuban alternatives

andrew princz — Tue, 16 Nov 2010 14:45:38 +0000

Tourists coaxed into different ways of experiencing Cuba

(Havana) Cuba is not waiting for change, to change. Despite slow progress in normalizing relations with the United States, the island-nation is diversifying its tourism infrastructure. As far as tourism is concerned, despite difficult times for the nations economy; Cuba is following its own agenda.

The recent launch of the island-nation’s tourism campaign Autentica Cuba puts it plain and simple terms as it has never done. Cuba is now encouraging visitors to explore the island, its music, poetry, and rich culture. Gone are the days of relegating tourists to the isolation of its all too similarly styled all-inclusive resorts.

In order to give a new façade to its Colonial-era architecture, the Cuban government and its tourism firms have transformed a series of colonial-era buildings into niche boutique hotels in Old Havana, developed a similar chain in cities across the island and allowed the private development of popular B&B-style home-stays called casa particular or home-style restaurants, paladars. Even some all-inclusive resorts have distinguished themselves for their exclusive services or unique experiences.

New ways to experience Cuba
This year the cultural tourism firm Paradiso Turismo Cultural is even peddling “Havana Salsa”, an eight-day salsa holiday which takes place in various parts of the capital. KoSA Cuba, meanwhile, offers immersive cultural experiences for youth to involve them with jazz, a dance troupe or percussion ensembles.

Infrastructure to support tourism has also been developed in less traveled cities of Cuba like the bustling town of Santiago de Cuba, the verdant Pinar del Rio area or the small welcoming historic eastern enclave of Baracoa.

While cultural tourism starts in the capital of Havana, during my seven-week stay in Cuba last year I was able to taste both the traditional – visiting some 85 hotels and resorts; as well as enjoying real-life Cuban hospitality from Havana to my favorite enclave, Baracoa.

Havana’s boutique hotels
In Havana, the state-run hotel management and development firm Habaguanex has launched nineteen unique themed boutique hotels located in Old Havana, the capital’s colonial district. While parts of this area are still crumbling from disrepair, this series of restoration projects are bearing fruit.

Built in an eclectic art-deco style in the 1920s and situated in the heart of Old Havana, the Hotel Ambos Mundos is adjacent to the famed Plaza de Armas and plays on its associations with American author Ernest Hemingway, whose Room 511 has been converted into a small museum.

Hotel Los Frailes is housed in an 18th century colonnaded building once belonging to Marquess Prado Claudio Duquesne, a captain of the French Navy. This themed hotel features staff that greet guests dressed as Franciscan friars in tanned veiled attire. Amenities are topnotch but rooms are dark, matching the hotels theme.

Don’t ask for a non-smoking room at the Hotel Conde de Villanueva. Here rooms are named after famous Cuban tobacco plantations and guests are encouraged to try some of the islands most exquisite cigars at the La Casa del Habanero. Located on one of old Havana’s most colorful streets this unique hotel even has a resident peacock.

The newest of the Habaguanex lot has an endless name, Hotel Palacio del Marqués de San Felipe y Santiago de Bejucal. The hotel is located on San Francisco de Asis Square, adjacent to one of Havana’s most notable concert halls for chamber and choral music.

Havana, business-class
Those looking for a more luxuriant way to experience the capital can look to the centrally located Hotel Saratoga, which sets the standard for all top-tier Cuban hotels. Located on the edge of Habana Vieja, the contemporary layout, open design reception and art-friendly atmosphere is unique. This property sits just across from the city’s landmark Capitolio, and harks back to the suave 1930s when orchestras played their wildly popular ‘aires libres’ on the terrace for local celebrities and socialites.

Catering primarily to business and group travel, the NH Parque Central is set in a superb location on the edge of Habana Vieja. The hotel is an icon of the city and the recently opened higher brow annex, NH Parque Central Torre. An underground tunnel connects the new wing, and is the most recent addition to the capitals premium-class lodging.

While a distance from the center of town, the Melia Cohiba with its 462 rooms is a traditional business hotel, and was the city’s first. Popular for group travel it is just off of the scenic Malecon. This property features four restaurants, pools, bars, the Habana Café and a gauntlet of entertainment options.

Varadero. Originally inhabited by Taíno aboriginals, Varadero was settled by the Spanish in the late 16th century. In the late 19th century, families from Cárdenas began to build summer houses here. Today, the beachfront oasis is lined with dozens of all-inclusive resorts. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

The staple that is Varadero
Varadero is the traditional destination for all-inclusive resort goers of Cuba, and benefits from its close proximity to Havana. An all-day hop-on-hop-off bus takes tourists from resort to resort, and into the small city-center. Day-trips to Havana are simple and offered in most hotel lobbies.

One of the most boisterous and animated resorts is the Barcelo Solymar, a favorite for group and party-travel. Located a short bike ride from the center of Varadero, this property has a high turnover, and enjoys one of Varadero’s most impressive pools. The resort is also located on some of the most pristine beaches, and wireless Internet is also available here.

Melia Las Antillas is an adults-only all inclusive property targeting singles and located in a small alcove off of Varadero’s Carretera Las Morlas. Junior suites here have a unique step-down design and are adorned with quality linens and comfy mattresses. The property has a vibrant, youthful atmosphere.

In the top tier of Varadero properties, the Sandals Royal Hicacos Resort Spa is an adults-only property set on a lovely beachfront. Lively colors, thatched Polynesian-style huts set the stage for this vibrant resort. Entertainment features cabarets, animations and a disco with an in-house band.

Set at the end of the Varadero peninsula is the Paradisus Princesa del Mar Resort & Spa which caters to couples, honeymooners and singles. It also features a private, premium royal service section. The main building is a colonial-style construction leading to a suave open-design lobby. The village-like grounds have Colonial-style architecture.

New frontier: Cayo Santa Maria & Cayo Coco
The lush tropical setting of Cayo Santa Maria is located in a pristine cay at the western end of the Archipelago de Sabana-Camaguey. This is the idyllic new frontier of Cuban tourism. Tied to the island by a man-made causeway this is where you find Melia Las Dunas, one of several five-star hideaways set amidst pristine azure-blue beaches.

Cuba’s most attractive all-inclusive resort is Melia Las Dunas, which offers a pleasing environment for families, couples and singles. This is an all-bungalow facility that includes forty-six two-story bungalows. Water fountains, pools and small islets with lounge chairs make the resort an appealing setting for getaways or weddings. It is a favorite among Canadian travelers.

Sundown in Havana. The sun descends on Havana Harbour this spring afternoon. Just off of Habana Vieja, these rugged cliffs are dominated by fortresses that were built as defensive complexes and constructed by the Spanish. The two main fortresses found here are the Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro and the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, the both of which comprise El Morro-La Cabana Historical Military Park. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

The Sol Cayo Santa Maria is a family and singles centered property for those who are adverse to the all-inclusive concept. This eco-friendly resort is laid back and offers a lush environment. The beach here even features a clothing-optional area. The resort was the first on the island and is known for its friendly and dedicated staff.

Not far away is the most elegant all-inclusive, the Royal Hideaway Ensenachos. The grounds here feature Italian marble floors, original classical paintings, and a sophisticated ambiance. An exclusive Royal Suites section offers an even more exclusive gamut of private service. Rooms feature classical décor and furnishing.

The easternmost of the neighboring island of Cayo Coco is an all-inclusive hotel, the Melia Cayo Coco is an adults-only resort with fifty-three two-story bungalows that are set in a circular pattern spanning from a beachfront to a natural lagoon. The property has meandering trails, with restaurants, bars and entertainment dispersed throughout the grounds.

If the palette of Cuba’s offering changing it is because the nation is developing from the staid notions of rigid communist thinking. It seems obvious that somebody up on the higher echelons of this island-state’s government has realized that it is the rich, diverse and creative culture of Cuba is what travelers are most attracted to. They’re probably right. The new alternatives on the Cuban palette are just another small step towards a more pluralist view of the world.

Havana Opera House. The attractive Havana Opera House is located adjacent to the Capitolio, and on the border of Habana Centrale and Habana Vieja, in one of the most central and bustling parts of town. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Memorial Jose Marti. Situated in Plaza de la Revolution. It consists of a massive granite sculpture of the national hero-in a seated, contemplative pose-on a 30-m (98-ft) base and a 139-m (456-ft) tower constructed of marble from La Isla de la Juventud (where Castro was imprisoned for his attack on the Moncada Barracks). The museum contains first editions of Martí's works, drawings, maps, and other memorabilia. Also on display are the original plans for both the monument and the square. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. While central Havana is overpopulated and lacking greenery, the Vedado and Miramar districts are leafy parts of town with elegant architecture and villas. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Modeled after Washington, D.C.'s domed Capitol, Havana's Capitolio was built in 1929 and is rich in iconography. The statue to the left of the entrance stairway represents Work (considered a masculine ethic); that on the right is of Virtue (a perceived feminine attribute). Some 30 bas-reliefs on the main door depict events in Cuba's history. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Havana is rife with classic 50s era US-made cars, which have been miraculously maintained. These vehicles have become communal taxis, taking residents accross town for the equivalent of less than a dollar. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. It's hard to miss the giant etching of Che Guevara on the Ministerio del Interior (Ministry of the Interior) on the northwestern edge of the Plaza de la Revolucion. It bears the words Hasta la Victoria Siempre, or Always onward toward victory. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Havana has many outstanding examples of Spanish colonial architecture. The UNESCO restoration project currently underway will, over the next decade, transform La Habana Vieja (Old Havana)-a World Heritage Site-into a living museum of colonial architecture. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. While some buildings are undergoing renovations, many buildings of Habana Vieja and Habana Centrale are still in disrepair. This said, it is these neighborhoods that you will find the most vibrant. Kids play in the streets, bicitaxis transport residents and tourists here and there, while others simply dance or sing in the streets. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Largely due to the US embargo of the island, basic materials like batteries or lighters can be hard to find. Entrepreneurs make things work here. In this image is a man who has set up a roadside stand where he repairs and refills simple lighters. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Varadero. There are over fifty all-inclusive beachfront hotels and resorts in Cuba. The island is now awaiting an eventual opening of the Cuban market to American tourists, which will likely have a significant impact on Cuba. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Varadero. For many years Varadero was almost hermitcally sealed and off limits to Cuban citizens. This year, Cuba's resorts opened to its own citizens. Although most cannot afford it, the symbolic opening is another sign of change on the island. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Varadero. The du Pont mansion, Mansión Xanadú, was christened after a verse from the Samuel Taylor Coleridge poem Kubla Khan ("In Xanadu did Kubla Khan / A stately pleasure dome decree"). With six rooms for rent, it's by far Varadero's top lodging choice, though you need to secure reservations many months in advance. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Sunrise in the winding streets of Santiago de Cuba, in eastern Cuba. Cuba's "second city," Santiago de Cuba, which has always been as open to French, African, and Caribbean creole influences as it has to those of Havana. It explodes during the July carnival, a weeklong festival of music, dancing, and merrymaking. One of the country's great pleasures may be enjoying a mojíto (light rum, sugar, mint, and soda) on the balcony of Santiago's Hotel Casa Granda. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Cuba's first Spanish settlement was founded in 1512 by Diego Velázquez, who went on to settle six other cities. Today Baracoa is one of the island's most charming towns. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

A year of false hopes for Cuba

andrew princz — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 17:49:43 +0000

Cuba tourism continues expansion, despite US embargo

Lingering anticipation and hopes for change in Cuba. Photo © Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com

(Havana) For Cuba it was a year of false-starts, tentative hopes for change andlingering anticipation that the United States would finally open the floodgates for American tourists to visit the island nation. As the year draws to a close, however, little has changed and the embargo persists. But if Cubans are used to anything, it is waiting.

In the nation’s capital of Havana clunky 1950s era Chevrolets still rattle alongside bici-taxis – habanero-drawn bicycles that double as public transportation – which crowd the roads.

A state of suspended animation has long become the status quo and any signs of optimism are tempered by a healthy dose of well-earned local skepticism. After all Cuba has been going at it alone for some five decades now.

Obama administration eases certain restrictions
The false ripples of anticipation began in mid-April when a flurry of public questioning of Cuba’s ability to absorb a flood of US tourists was launched by US media outlets after the Obama administration had eased certain travel restrictions on Cuban-Americans. New rules allow one visit to the island each year as opposed to every three years which was previously mandated. The US has maintained a full embargo since 1962 which essentially prohibits Americans from spending money in Cuba. The embargo was imposed following the government of Fidel Castro’s expropriation and nationalization of properties belonging to US citizens and corporations.

Decades later the embargo seems only to have increased the misery of the Cuban people and has had little of the intended effect. After all Fidel Castro has outlived ten US president since his gang of ragtag revolutionaries came to power here over a half a century ago. Today while Fidel Castro handed over the reigns of power to his brother Raul, his influence is still real and his byline appears almost daily in the government newspaper Granma.

The Cuban government goes to great lengths to remind its citizens that it is the US embargo which is responsible for much of the country’s misery. Dusty signs all over the nation’s highways spread the propaganda of a half-century-old revolution while those very same fading posters are a reminder that Fidel Castro’s revolution is in much need of a face-lift of its own.

Much of the springtime speculation centered around the islands perceived inability to absorb a mass of new arrivals should the US administration go one step further and lift the embargo altogether. It was a strange logic. Two decades ago as the Berlin wall collapsed droves of western tourists ventured eastward to Hungary, Poland, then Czechoslovakia and eastern Germany. Any lack of hotel rooms was more than made up by little old ladies keen to rent their flats to those curious to see lands that had been all but sealed off to this kind of mass tourism for decades.

More important than a lack of infrastructure the US media seemed to forget to ask if there was enough political capital in Washington and Miami to make any real political change in its Cuba policy.

Slow changes within Cuba
Meanwhile the government of the communist island has already taken a plunge into the capitalist enterprise of allowing the development of a network of private home stays – or casa particolares – which themselves have become extremely popular. They have attracted a whole new demographic of tourists.

While the state has heavily taxed these entrepreneurs, the government nevertheless recognized the benefits of the dynamism of an entrepreneurial class. In addition, earlier this year the government also opened the island’s luxury resorts to Cuban citizens, finally allowing the country’s own inhabitants to benefit from the infrastructure that until this year was off limits even to those who could pay.

Those who claimed that Cuba is not ready for a mass of US tourists should that country chose to lift the embargo; may well simply be wrong, and are certainly missing the point. Cuba is well aware of the value of tourism to its economy, and just what a change in US tourism policy would mean. This nation has furiously developed hotels and resorts over the past two decades which today cater to primarily Canadian and European visitors. Just last week Cuba announced the latest tourism arrival figures in the communist paper Granma, quoting the tourism minister who revealed the arrival of some 2.4 million tourists this year. That is up 3.3 percent over last year, figures that are fueled by the addition of some 2,000 new hotel rooms catering to high-end visitors.

Over the past two decades along with its foreign development partners the island has ploughed away with the expansion of a network of all-inclusive resorts in Havana, Varadero, the island’s northern cays, around the eastern city of Holguin and the southern resort island of Cayo Largo.

For example, take the lush tropical setting of Cayo Santa Maria. This pristine cay at the western end of the Archipelago de Sabana-Camaguey is the idyllic setting of the new frontier of Cuban tourism. Tied to the island by a man-made causeway this is where you find Melia Las Dunas, one of several five-star hideaways set amidst pristine azure-blue beaches.

In Havana the Hotel Satarotoga sets a new standard of excellence for high-end business hotels on the island. This property sits just across from the city’s landmark Capitolio, and harks back to the suave 1930s when Cuban orchestras played their wildly popular ‘aires libres’ on the hotel’s terrace for local celebrities and socialites.

Habana Vieja undergoes restoration works
A short distance away in Habana Vieja, the historic district of the capital, you find a series of recently restored colonial-era buildings in what is a massive project spearheaded by the government-owned Habaguanex chain. As part of the ongoing restoration project the government has converted landmark colonial-era properties into thematic boutique-style hotels; each with its particular cache and charm.

Even today the eastern end of the established tourism Mecca of Varadero is lined with construction cranes and new development properties. While far from looking like a new Shanghai, the Cubans may well be taking their cues in the capitalist enterprise from their Chinese friends.

In retrospect accusations of unpreparedness for western tourist arrivals could easily have been levelled against Central European nations shortly before the fall of communism there two decades ago. For these countries the floodgates did open. It is likely that a similar scenario will play itself out in Cuba. As to exactly when; that is still an open question. Cubans are used to waiting.

First stop of the colonial journey

andrew princz — Fri, 11 Jun 2010 23:43:07 +0000

Sunset at Aura Beach. Photo © Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com

Santo Domingo’s architectural landmarks reminiscent of colonial past

(Santo Domingo) The private Aura Beach property outside of Santo Domingo is nothing like what you imagine a coast to look like in the Dominican Republic. There are no rows of lawn-chairs and no race for a good spot. Every spot is as restful as the next. Unlike some of the island resort towns in the region on this secluded spot not far from the capital you can actually find a shoreline to lounge away the hours in relative seclusion.

Before sunset you dine on fresh seafood and pasta served on your private oceanfront bed. Here, you get a taste of pampered decadence.

What you might not know is that Santo Domingo is a historical and cultural hub. It’s a path trodden equally by discoverers, pirates and despots. This is a place where stories breathe through the cobblestone streets whose colonial architecture hides tales of the victors and the vanquished. After all, this is where the awkward foot of colonialism first stepped in the Americas.

As afternoon wares off, hues of blue in the sky slowly make way for light and dark shades of oranges and reds. The landscape shifts to silhouettes of the surrounding palm trees and thatched huts that are perched right in the warm Caribbean waters. The heat of the sun slowly wanes in favor of a slow breeze.

It may be no surprise that this idyllic island was the first to be inhabited by Europeans in the sixteenth century. It was here that Christopher Columbus landed on his self-titled island of Hispaniola on December 5, 1492. The historical annals will note that this was the first stop of the at times ill-fated journey of the colonial history of the Americas.

Over the following centuries colonial wars and conflicts would pervade the Caribbean as the Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch, English and French competed each other as well as errant buccaneers over the many idyllic islands that dot this region.

The coble-stone lined colonial quarter of Santo Domingo today has preserved its elegant architecture and is now characterized by upscale restaurants, boutique hotels and even the well-preserved sixteenth century Cathedral of Santa Maria. This atmosphere takes you back to those early moments of the European journey on the continent. During my visit to Santo Domingo I even stayed in one of the most storied buildings of this first European village of the Antilles.

The Sofitel Nicolas de Ovando is a two-story historic building with arched colonnades, wooden bridges, winding paths and a lush tropical interior courtyard. Dutifully restored here you become a guest at this mansion that was once home to the governor of Hispaniola, Nicolas de Ovando, who ruled here from 1502 to 1509. The stonewalls, draped bed-frames and wicker furniture exude the grace of this one-time palace.

I even kept on getting lost in the corridors and winding paths here. But wherever you find yourself you discover beautiful colonnades and lush tropical gardens.

In the neighborhood a short walk down the stone path streets is the 16th century Governors Palace, the Alcazar de Colon. Located in a central square this is the former home of the first-born son of Christopher Columbus, Don Diego Colon. The building is the oldest vice regal residence in the Americas and is today a museum that exhibits the Caribbean’s most important collection of medieval and Renaissance art. In his time it was from here his son slowly lost the battle of the prestige that were granted him through his father’s deeds.

But hidden behind elegant exteriors is also a more dubious past. New York Times best-selling author Junot Diaz, born in Santo Domingo, analyses a multi-generational ‘bad-luck’ of sorts that has plagued the island. In his novel “The Brief Wondrous Life of Oscar Wao”, he gives us clues about the darker side of the history of this island-paradise. He even gives it a name. He calls this Fuku americanus, or colloquially termed, fuku.

Had we been more adventuresome we might have had a closer to what this fuku might look like. We should have known that the sign warning visitors not to bring handguns past the threshold of the door of one local bar was a sign that ‘bad-luck lies here’. We only entered for a moment, perhaps instinctively fearing a plague of fuku.

Maybe it was the atmospheric effect of fuku on the island that led the creators of the Academy Award-winning The Godfather II to have Santo Domingo sit-in for the dingy but exciting setting of pre-revolutionary Cuba. You can still see the terrace of the Occidental El Embajador, where one scene of the film was played; while the presidential palace is the setting for the truncated New Year’s Eve party of the fated Cuban strongman Fulgencio Batista.

But Diaz’s fuku dates back further. It may even go back centuries to the arrival of Christopher Columbus. But here the modern apex may have come during the not so distant rule of Rafael Trujillo Molina, who literally reigned over the Dominican Republic with impunity from 1930 until his assassination in 1961. He was known simply as ‘El Jefe’, the boss. He is reputed to have been the bloodiest dictator of the 20th century. During his rule, the capital was even given his name, Ciudad Trujillo.

Today among the strolling tourists of Santo Domingo there is little to reveal the disquieting history of this starting-point of European presence in the Americas. Save maybe a somewhat obscure painting or two in the national museum, black and white photographs of a dictatorial era or even etchings that hint back at a checkered colonial past.

Today we mark time by reading the stories of fuku on a bed by the sea, only momentarily recognizing that we too might see where our tales connect to the story of this part of Hispaniola.

Nature’s reality show

andrew princz — Mon, 24 May 2010 12:49:41 +0000

Belize’s low-key tempo and stunning natural habitats

(Punta Gorda) My first evening perched in a treetop resort in the jungles of Belize was rudely disturbed by a long, strange and ear-splitting sound. While the unique architecture of my room included an airy veranda with a simple screen separating me from the rain-forest’s natural inhabitants was pleasing, at that moment I must admit that I longed for the classical wall structure. But nature won-out that night as I fell asleep in the lush tropical setting despite the mysterious groans that continued to emanate from above.

Nature throws you a loop in Belize. That first evening was a sign. Coming here, be it hidden away in the secluded south or even on the quiet agricultural northern highways; as a traveller you are propelled far away from the cookie-cruncher tourism of vast resorts, grand pools and flocks of weary travellers. In Belize you are a guest among others at nature’s reality-show.

What this small nation lacks in fine sandy beaches or grandiose developments, it is even more appealing for its verdant natural beauty, romantic secluded settings, spectacular aquatic life and the unique cultural mix of people who call this land home.

An image that I came to Belize with was from “Three Kings of Belize”, a documentary of first-time Canadian filmmaker Katia Paradis. In her slow-moving portrait she tells the stories of three of the country’s notable musicians and their daily existential struggles. The mix of an aging Garifuna composer, an ethnic Mayan harp player and a Creole accordionist and their simple lives in the jungles somehow prepared me for this world of unsung kings and quiet natural diversity.

The Machaca Hill Rainforest Canopy Lodge
The next day began with a patio breakfast overlooking the dense forest canapé at the Machaca Hill Rainforest Canopy Lodge. This sprawling resort occupied my first days in the southern corner of the country. At breakfast staff pointed out a pack of howler monkeys roaming the treetops. These are the largest monkeys of the America’s, I was told. I was less surprised to hear that they are also the loudest. They venture in groups and the howls of the night before were likely two male monkeys setting the territorial boundaries straight.

Located on top of Machaca Hill overlooking an expansive swath of protected rainforest of the Rio Grande River, the property spans an incredible 12,000 acres in a lush jungle setting. The resort includes twelve perched treetop cabanas, a newly constructed Jubalani spa, a private gourmet restaurant and a landscape with few boundaries, literally or physically. With a vast swath of pristine rainforest as far as the eye can see Machaca Hill is lodged in an area of an abundance surrounding jungles, coral reefs and untouched azure-blue waters.

Machaca Hill Rainforest Canopy Lodge. Located on top of Machaca Hill overlooking an expansive area of protected rainforest at the mouth of the Rio Grande river, this grand property spans some 12,000 acres. The lodge was completely redesigned and renovated into a boutique facility of twelve tree-top rooms in 2002. Photo © 2009, Courtesy of Machaca Hill by Jim Stephens BELIZE

A boat-ride towards the open ocean begins on the rivers edge that is a short walk down the forested hill. Manatees occasionally bob up and down the calm waters. They inhabit a winding waterway of mangroves and cays. Innumerable birds appear and floating lily’s pervade this part of the Port Honduras Marine Reserve.

Machaca Hill works hand-in-hand with the Toledo Institute of Development and Environment, a conservation organization which works in the Maya Mountain Marine Corridor, a one million acre area that stretches from the Maya Mountains to the Belize Barrier Reef, an area that was described in 1842 by Charles Darwin as, “the most remarkable reef in the West Indies”.

The reef straddles the coast of Belize about 300 meters from the shore and is the second largest coral reef system in the world after the Great Barrier Reef in Australia.

As we reach our destination I stop to take out my snorkeling gear and flop into the warm waters. Amazingly swimming a few feet away from the reef is a sprawling view of large and small-multicolored fish that swim around hardly taking note of your presence. So close was this stunning reality show that I searched for the schools of hundreds of fry being guarded over in this limitless natural aquarium.

The Mayan settlements
The surrounding towns, villages and even archeological sites of this southern Belize outpost range from the humdrum, the curious to the outright fascinating. The local town of Punta Gorda is nondescript. Found here are stall-like stores, a small local market, or an assortment of craftspeople selling their wares. There is even a mobile ice-cream stand that plays tunes like a true-to-life European music box.

While far from the significance in archeological terms of sites in neighboring Guatemala or the Yucatan in Mexico, the ancient Mayan settlements of Nim Li Punit or Lubaantun – which are 40 kilometers or 45 minutes from the resort give you an idea of the stone craftsmanship of the ancient Maya. These sites were also part of the vast network of interconnected settlements of the Maya, peoples who flourished during the Classical period between 250 AD and 900 AD. These settlements and interconnected roadways ranked this civilization among the most densely populated and most structured in the world at the time.

A short distance away from here is the sleepy village of Barranco, where a lonely crowing of a rooster reverberates through the hamlet. This small village is host to a lesser-known but storied community of peoples who escaped slavery and settled on the coast of the Caribbean over three centuries ago.

It wasn’t the first time that I’d bumped into Garinagu (also referred to as Garifuna) settlements, whose history on the Atlantic coast dates back to the early 17th century when this West African peoples haphazardly escaped the fate of slavery as they landed on the Caribbean island of Saint Vincent. I had already ventured to the sleepy Garinagu village of Livingstone in nearby Guatemala, and was tuned in to the good vibes and music that these people are largely known for.

Considering these Black Caribs enemies during a territorial war between the British and Spanish, the British deported the Garinagu to Roatan; a small infertile island, leading to the death of about half of the population. They were forced to flee.

“Many suffered and eventually left for Belize, which became a safe-haven after landing here in 1802,” Mr. Alvin Loredo, one of Barranco’s one hundred and thirty Garinagu inhabitants tells me as we walk through the village, “They originally came to Belize City where they were granted permission by the then governor of the country to settle in these lands.”

Mr. Loredo shows me around the village, its church and a tiny post office. There is even a dibujaba; a thatched-hut construction which is a place of prayer and dance for families who gather to connect with their forbearers, an important preoccupation for the Garinagu.

Learning about the Garinagu. An inhabitant of Barranco, Alvin Loredo walked us through his village and talked about the history of the Garinagu - who arrived in Belize from St-Vincent in the 16th century. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

The Garinagu of Belize
In Belize, the Garinagu settled primarily in the coastal towns of Dangriga, Hopkins, Seine Bight, Georgetown, Punta Gorda and Barranco. While the Garinagu population is Belize is said to be over thirteen thousand, pockets of the ethnic group are also found in neighboring Honduras, Guatemala, Nicaragua amd Saint Vincent and the Grenadines.

Barranco is the birthplace of singer, songwriter and Garinagu cultural advocate Mr. Andy Palacio, who contributed to bringing the sounds of the unique African-Indigenous people to the world. Palacio, who died in 2008, championed Garifuna music that is characterized by fast paced hand drumming on hollowed-out hardwood instruments that reverberate African traditions, accompanied as they are by vibrating snares. But even here the sounds of Garinagu are less heard today.

“There are no industries close to Barranco,” laments Mr. Loredo, “There are mostly older folks and younger kids here because the working age-groups is what we have lost to migrations to cities like New York, Chicago, Las Angeles… or even Belize City or Belmopan.”

The next chapter of my journey through Belize took me north from Machaca Hill in the southern Toledo District town of Punta Gorda, north to Belize City before heading to my next destination – another of the nation’s many secluded resorts. Traveling up the coast is done by way of a small aircraft that makes swift and periodic stops along numerous smaller settlements with tiny runways and curious names like Placencia or Dangriga.

The modern aircraft feels like a flying hop-on-hop-off bus ferrying small groups of passengers along the coast that from above looks much like fresh broccoli heads floating on the waters bellow.

Journey to St Georges Caye Resort
I pass briefly through Belize City, which is more of a stopping off point towards San Pedro, Caye Caulker, Caye Chapel or my destination, a hideaway on St-George’s Caye, 14.5 kilometers or twenty minutes by boat from the capital.

Heather Sellors and her friendly giant dog, Sam, greet me at the docks of St Georges Caye Resort. Ms. Sellors is a Canadian from Fort Nelson who left the frigid north to manage this quiet resort property of oceanfront cabanas which face the Caribbean Sea. Giant umbrella-like palm trees shade the resort with its winding pathway and tropical plants. The resort even has vocal yellow head parrot Lorry who rolls his r’s like a Frenchman and laughs something like a crazy witch.

St-George’s Caye Resort also offers a varied pallet of activities to bring you closer to nature. Underwater adventurers dive deep into the nearby Blue Hole, a natural wonder discovered by Jacques Cousteau. A Mecca for scuba enthusiasts, this sinkhole is located within the Lighthouse Reef Atoll and spans 1,000 feet in diameter and measures 400 feet at its deepest point.

Day-trips in the area also take you to a baboon sanctuary located in the rainforests, or there are visits the ancient Mayan sites of Atun Ha or Lamanai, which feature monumental architecture, temples and terraces of the Mayan Classic and Pre-Classic periods.

Then came a BBQ in the open sea. A boat brought me out to a shallow sand dune out in the ocean where our chef was cooking brochettes in knee-deep waters. It was an out-of–this world experience as he cooked up a storm in the middle of a scenic sand dune. It was literally fine dining at sea, leaving moments of reflection watching the pristine azure-blue waters and fine sandy shoals.

While the property is another natural playground, I also went inland to look for the cultural mosaic of this area. I found communities that had settled the lands here in an organic but somewhat haphazard way. The first stop was Hattieville, a town originally set up as a refugee camp after Hurricane Hattie ravaged Belize City in 1961, hitting the community with damaging winds and a deadly tidal wave. The refugee camp slowly developed into the town not far from the country’s capital city of Belmopan.

In the south it was the Garinagu, but here it was another people who had found shelter in the natural paradise of Belize that peaked my interest. It wasn’t hard to notice the Mennonites in these parts because they were distinctive in their appearance and strict adherence to their cultural roots.

The misunderstood Mennonites
The much-misunderstood Mennonites are conspicuous in their use of horse-drawn carriages led by men dressed in their suspenders, straw hats and simple one-color shirts. Women wear conservative long plaid dresses and even bonnets. In my mind the scene had more to do with these people’s northern European roots than an alternate model of living.

Scouting for the manatee. We scouted the brackish water of the rivermouth, a favorite spot for the Indian manatee. Belize is home to the second largest population of these manatees, only 300 to 700 are known to exist, due largely to poaching. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

“About fifty years ago after a circuitous route from Mexico and Canada a group of Mennonites decided to settle here and make a place where we could farm and have our own schools,” Mr. Peter Reimme, a local Mennonite and owner the Good News Bookstore in Spanish Lookout told me.

The Mennonites live largely on agricultural industries and came to Belize with promises of being able to live largely outside of the systems of the state, and respect their refusal to pay taxes or to support the military.

“The government of Belize provided us with an agreement that we would be exempted from military service which was a key point in our move to Belize,” Mr. Reimme said. “After quite a few people were drafted in the military. This concerned the church, which had been concerned to keep our young people back home instead of going to kill people.”

In 1959, 3,000 Mennonites were relocated to Belize, and were promised a life free of religious persecution and relief of the pressures of modern society. Uniquely after concluding an agreement with the Belize Government, these peoples were exempt from military service, certain taxes and were guaranteed the right to practice their distinctive form of Protestantism. To this day, they farm within their own closed communities, run their own schools, banks and businesses.

Like the Garinagu before them who escaped slavery in Africa and landed at these shored, Belize proved also the Mennonites a quiet space in a lush setting where unsung peoples go about their everyday lives in a tolerant and beauituful space.

“All of this has developed with a lot of hard work and efforts,” says Mr. Reimme, “Many people have been very diligent and committed to make a go of things here”.

En route to Machaca Hill. Our trip began in Belize City, where we boarded a Tropic Air Cessna Caravan aircraft that zipped us to the Machaca Hill Rainforest Canopy Lodge. The hour-long flight made quick stops on small air-fields at Dangriga and Placencia before reaching the southern community of Punta Gorda, our final destination. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

A jungle-view. The property consists of twelve private jungle-view cabanas with an open screened veranda looking onto the lush vegetation. During most nights you could hear the loud calls of howler monkeys. Photo © 2009, Courtesy of Machaca Hill by Jim Stephens BELIZE

The market at Punta Gorda. Our trip consisted of numerous outings to the surrounding villages and nature reserve. Not far from the lodge was the town of Punta Gorda, where we walked through the local market. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

Children in Punta Gorda. We were greeted by local children as we walked about the seaport and fishing town of Punta Gorda. The town, with a population of some 6,000, is English speaking and its people are of Garifuna (Black Carib), East Indian or Kriol descent. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

The landscape. A typical landscape of the surrounding villages consists of lush forest, punctuated by homes with thatched roofs, or small one-family concrete homes. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

The village of Barranco. With a population of 160 we visited Barranco, a Garifuna village. The Garifuna live in central America, and they live on the Caribbean Coasts of Belize, Honduras, Guatemala and Nicaragua. Sizeable Garinagu populations also emigrated to the United States. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

The village of Barranco. UNESCO proclaimed, in 2001, the language, dance and music of the Garinagu as a Masterpiece of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity in Nicaragua, Honduras, and Belize. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

Marcelo Cayetano Dabuyaba Complex. The Garinagu continue to undertake gatherings honoring their ancestors. This complex acts as a meeting place for ceremonies. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

The village landscape. Traveling in the landscapes of Toledo, I came across groups of children walking home from school - who were fascinated by seeing their pictures from the lens of my camera. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

The pristine waters. The crystal clear blue Caribbean waters of the Port Honduras Marine Reserve are home to the popular Snake Cayes where visitors can find white sand beaches, migratory birds and even boa constrictors! Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

Port of Honduras Marine Reserve. Port Honduras Marine Reserve, though only declared in 2000, is been under the watchful eye of the Toledo Institute of Development and Environment (TIDE). The management system for PHMR has 5 primary goals: to protect the physical and biological resources of the reserve by creating a zoning plan for preservation, to provide educational and interpretive programs as well as developing appropriate protocols for researching and monitoring the resources, to preserve the value of the area for fisheries and genetic resources by protecting habitat through patrolling and surveillance, to develop recreational and tourism services that are sustainable, and to strive for sustainable financing through user fees and other strategies. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

Snorkelling. We picked a spot around one of the sandy beaches and snorkelled in the crystal clear waters. The pristine coral reefs were spectacular, as were the abundance of fish and underwater life. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

Toledo Institute of Development and Environment. Positive effects of TIDE's management of the marine reserve directly reach local communities; by patrolling Two Dolphins for illegal fishing activities, TIDE's efforts keep the fish populations sustainable and provide adequate fish, the major food staple in the area, for human consumption. In addition, the reserve has become essential to the fly-fishing community; protecting the fish populations has resulted in a booming sustainable business for local guides and businesses. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

Ancient Mayan settlements. The area around Punta Gorda are the home of ancient Mayan settlements of Nim Li Punit and Lubaantun, which are now archaeological parks. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE

A last swim Before heading back to home-base, we climbed towards an underground cave, where we bathed in soothingly cool waters. This was Belize, our reality-show provided by nature. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com BELIZE