On the Globe » Cuba

Cuban alternatives

andrew princz — Tue, 16 Nov 2010 14:45:38 +0000

Tourists coaxed into different ways of experiencing Cuba

(Havana) Cuba is not waiting for change, to change. Despite slow progress in normalizing relations with the United States, the island-nation is diversifying its tourism infrastructure. As far as tourism is concerned, despite difficult times for the nations economy; Cuba is following its own agenda.

The recent launch of the island-nation’s tourism campaign Autentica Cuba puts it plain and simple terms as it has never done. Cuba is now encouraging visitors to explore the island, its music, poetry, and rich culture. Gone are the days of relegating tourists to the isolation of its all too similarly styled all-inclusive resorts.

In order to give a new façade to its Colonial-era architecture, the Cuban government and its tourism firms have transformed a series of colonial-era buildings into niche boutique hotels in Old Havana, developed a similar chain in cities across the island and allowed the private development of popular B&B-style home-stays called casa particular or home-style restaurants, paladars. Even some all-inclusive resorts have distinguished themselves for their exclusive services or unique experiences.

New ways to experience Cuba
This year the cultural tourism firm Paradiso Turismo Cultural is even peddling “Havana Salsa”, an eight-day salsa holiday which takes place in various parts of the capital. KoSA Cuba, meanwhile, offers immersive cultural experiences for youth to involve them with jazz, a dance troupe or percussion ensembles.

Infrastructure to support tourism has also been developed in less traveled cities of Cuba like the bustling town of Santiago de Cuba, the verdant Pinar del Rio area or the small welcoming historic eastern enclave of Baracoa.

While cultural tourism starts in the capital of Havana, during my seven-week stay in Cuba last year I was able to taste both the traditional – visiting some 85 hotels and resorts; as well as enjoying real-life Cuban hospitality from Havana to my favorite enclave, Baracoa.

Havana’s boutique hotels
In Havana, the state-run hotel management and development firm Habaguanex has launched nineteen unique themed boutique hotels located in Old Havana, the capital’s colonial district. While parts of this area are still crumbling from disrepair, this series of restoration projects are bearing fruit.

Built in an eclectic art-deco style in the 1920s and situated in the heart of Old Havana, the Hotel Ambos Mundos is adjacent to the famed Plaza de Armas and plays on its associations with American author Ernest Hemingway, whose Room 511 has been converted into a small museum.

Hotel Los Frailes is housed in an 18th century colonnaded building once belonging to Marquess Prado Claudio Duquesne, a captain of the French Navy. This themed hotel features staff that greet guests dressed as Franciscan friars in tanned veiled attire. Amenities are topnotch but rooms are dark, matching the hotels theme.

Don’t ask for a non-smoking room at the Hotel Conde de Villanueva. Here rooms are named after famous Cuban tobacco plantations and guests are encouraged to try some of the islands most exquisite cigars at the La Casa del Habanero. Located on one of old Havana’s most colorful streets this unique hotel even has a resident peacock.

The newest of the Habaguanex lot has an endless name, Hotel Palacio del Marqués de San Felipe y Santiago de Bejucal. The hotel is located on San Francisco de Asis Square, adjacent to one of Havana’s most notable concert halls for chamber and choral music.

Havana, business-class
Those looking for a more luxuriant way to experience the capital can look to the centrally located Hotel Saratoga, which sets the standard for all top-tier Cuban hotels. Located on the edge of Habana Vieja, the contemporary layout, open design reception and art-friendly atmosphere is unique. This property sits just across from the city’s landmark Capitolio, and harks back to the suave 1930s when orchestras played their wildly popular ‘aires libres’ on the terrace for local celebrities and socialites.

Catering primarily to business and group travel, the NH Parque Central is set in a superb location on the edge of Habana Vieja. The hotel is an icon of the city and the recently opened higher brow annex, NH Parque Central Torre. An underground tunnel connects the new wing, and is the most recent addition to the capitals premium-class lodging.

While a distance from the center of town, the Melia Cohiba with its 462 rooms is a traditional business hotel, and was the city’s first. Popular for group travel it is just off of the scenic Malecon. This property features four restaurants, pools, bars, the Habana Café and a gauntlet of entertainment options.

Varadero. Originally inhabited by Taíno aboriginals, Varadero was settled by the Spanish in the late 16th century. In the late 19th century, families from Cárdenas began to build summer houses here. Today, the beachfront oasis is lined with dozens of all-inclusive resorts. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

The staple that is Varadero
Varadero is the traditional destination for all-inclusive resort goers of Cuba, and benefits from its close proximity to Havana. An all-day hop-on-hop-off bus takes tourists from resort to resort, and into the small city-center. Day-trips to Havana are simple and offered in most hotel lobbies.

One of the most boisterous and animated resorts is the Barcelo Solymar, a favorite for group and party-travel. Located a short bike ride from the center of Varadero, this property has a high turnover, and enjoys one of Varadero’s most impressive pools. The resort is also located on some of the most pristine beaches, and wireless Internet is also available here.

Melia Las Antillas is an adults-only all inclusive property targeting singles and located in a small alcove off of Varadero’s Carretera Las Morlas. Junior suites here have a unique step-down design and are adorned with quality linens and comfy mattresses. The property has a vibrant, youthful atmosphere.

In the top tier of Varadero properties, the Sandals Royal Hicacos Resort Spa is an adults-only property set on a lovely beachfront. Lively colors, thatched Polynesian-style huts set the stage for this vibrant resort. Entertainment features cabarets, animations and a disco with an in-house band.

Set at the end of the Varadero peninsula is the Paradisus Princesa del Mar Resort & Spa which caters to couples, honeymooners and singles. It also features a private, premium royal service section. The main building is a colonial-style construction leading to a suave open-design lobby. The village-like grounds have Colonial-style architecture.

New frontier: Cayo Santa Maria & Cayo Coco
The lush tropical setting of Cayo Santa Maria is located in a pristine cay at the western end of the Archipelago de Sabana-Camaguey. This is the idyllic new frontier of Cuban tourism. Tied to the island by a man-made causeway this is where you find Melia Las Dunas, one of several five-star hideaways set amidst pristine azure-blue beaches.

Cuba’s most attractive all-inclusive resort is Melia Las Dunas, which offers a pleasing environment for families, couples and singles. This is an all-bungalow facility that includes forty-six two-story bungalows. Water fountains, pools and small islets with lounge chairs make the resort an appealing setting for getaways or weddings. It is a favorite among Canadian travelers.

Sundown in Havana. The sun descends on Havana Harbour this spring afternoon. Just off of Habana Vieja, these rugged cliffs are dominated by fortresses that were built as defensive complexes and constructed by the Spanish. The two main fortresses found here are the Castillo de los Tres Reyes del Morro and the Fortaleza de San Carlos de la Cabana, the both of which comprise El Morro-La Cabana Historical Military Park. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

The Sol Cayo Santa Maria is a family and singles centered property for those who are adverse to the all-inclusive concept. This eco-friendly resort is laid back and offers a lush environment. The beach here even features a clothing-optional area. The resort was the first on the island and is known for its friendly and dedicated staff.

Not far away is the most elegant all-inclusive, the Royal Hideaway Ensenachos. The grounds here feature Italian marble floors, original classical paintings, and a sophisticated ambiance. An exclusive Royal Suites section offers an even more exclusive gamut of private service. Rooms feature classical décor and furnishing.

The easternmost of the neighboring island of Cayo Coco is an all-inclusive hotel, the Melia Cayo Coco is an adults-only resort with fifty-three two-story bungalows that are set in a circular pattern spanning from a beachfront to a natural lagoon. The property has meandering trails, with restaurants, bars and entertainment dispersed throughout the grounds.

If the palette of Cuba’s offering changing it is because the nation is developing from the staid notions of rigid communist thinking. It seems obvious that somebody up on the higher echelons of this island-state’s government has realized that it is the rich, diverse and creative culture of Cuba is what travelers are most attracted to. They’re probably right. The new alternatives on the Cuban palette are just another small step towards a more pluralist view of the world.

Havana Opera House. The attractive Havana Opera House is located adjacent to the Capitolio, and on the border of Habana Centrale and Habana Vieja, in one of the most central and bustling parts of town. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Memorial Jose Marti. Situated in Plaza de la Revolution. It consists of a massive granite sculpture of the national hero-in a seated, contemplative pose-on a 30-m (98-ft) base and a 139-m (456-ft) tower constructed of marble from La Isla de la Juventud (where Castro was imprisoned for his attack on the Moncada Barracks). The museum contains first editions of Martí's works, drawings, maps, and other memorabilia. Also on display are the original plans for both the monument and the square. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. While central Havana is overpopulated and lacking greenery, the Vedado and Miramar districts are leafy parts of town with elegant architecture and villas. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Modeled after Washington, D.C.'s domed Capitol, Havana's Capitolio was built in 1929 and is rich in iconography. The statue to the left of the entrance stairway represents Work (considered a masculine ethic); that on the right is of Virtue (a perceived feminine attribute). Some 30 bas-reliefs on the main door depict events in Cuba's history. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Havana is rife with classic 50s era US-made cars, which have been miraculously maintained. These vehicles have become communal taxis, taking residents accross town for the equivalent of less than a dollar. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. It's hard to miss the giant etching of Che Guevara on the Ministerio del Interior (Ministry of the Interior) on the northwestern edge of the Plaza de la Revolucion. It bears the words Hasta la Victoria Siempre, or Always onward toward victory. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Havana has many outstanding examples of Spanish colonial architecture. The UNESCO restoration project currently underway will, over the next decade, transform La Habana Vieja (Old Havana)-a World Heritage Site-into a living museum of colonial architecture. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. While some buildings are undergoing renovations, many buildings of Habana Vieja and Habana Centrale are still in disrepair. This said, it is these neighborhoods that you will find the most vibrant. Kids play in the streets, bicitaxis transport residents and tourists here and there, while others simply dance or sing in the streets. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Havana. Largely due to the US embargo of the island, basic materials like batteries or lighters can be hard to find. Entrepreneurs make things work here. In this image is a man who has set up a roadside stand where he repairs and refills simple lighters. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Varadero. There are over fifty all-inclusive beachfront hotels and resorts in Cuba. The island is now awaiting an eventual opening of the Cuban market to American tourists, which will likely have a significant impact on Cuba. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Varadero. For many years Varadero was almost hermitcally sealed and off limits to Cuban citizens. This year, Cuba's resorts opened to its own citizens. Although most cannot afford it, the symbolic opening is another sign of change on the island. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Varadero. The du Pont mansion, Mansión Xanadú, was christened after a verse from the Samuel Taylor Coleridge poem Kubla Khan ("In Xanadu did Kubla Khan / A stately pleasure dome decree"). With six rooms for rent, it's by far Varadero's top lodging choice, though you need to secure reservations many months in advance. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Sunrise in the winding streets of Santiago de Cuba, in eastern Cuba. Cuba's "second city," Santiago de Cuba, which has always been as open to French, African, and Caribbean creole influences as it has to those of Havana. It explodes during the July carnival, a weeklong festival of music, dancing, and merrymaking. One of the country's great pleasures may be enjoying a mojíto (light rum, sugar, mint, and soda) on the balcony of Santiago's Hotel Casa Granda. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

Cuba's first Spanish settlement was founded in 1512 by Diego Velázquez, who went on to settle six other cities. Today Baracoa is one of the island's most charming towns. Photo © 2009, Andrew Princz, ontheglobe.com CUBA

A year of false hopes for Cuba

andrew princz — Sat, 26 Jun 2010 17:49:43 +0000

Cuba tourism continues expansion, despite US embargo

(Havana) For Cuba it was a year of false-starts, tentative hopes for change andlingering anticipation that the United States would finally open the floodgates for American tourists to visit the island nation. As the year draws to a close, however, little has changed and the embargo persists. But if Cubans are used to anything, it is waiting.

In the nation’s capital of Havana clunky 1950s era Chevrolets still rattle alongside bici-taxis – habanero-drawn bicycles that double as public transportation – which crowd the roads.

A state of suspended animation has long become the status quo and any signs of optimism are tempered by a healthy dose of well-earned local skepticism. After all Cuba has been going at it alone for some five decades now.

Obama administration eases certain restrictions
The false ripples of anticipation began in mid-April when a flurry of public questioning of Cuba’s ability to absorb a flood of US tourists was launched by US media outlets after the Obama administration had eased certain travel restrictions on Cuban-Americans. New rules allow one visit to the island each year as opposed to every three years which was previously mandated. The US has maintained a full embargo since 1962 which essentially prohibits Americans from spending money in Cuba. The embargo was imposed following the government of Fidel Castro’s expropriation and nationalization of properties belonging to US citizens and corporations.

Decades later the embargo seems only to have increased the misery of the Cuban people and has had little of the intended effect. After all Fidel Castro has outlived ten US president since his gang of ragtag revolutionaries came to power here over a half a century ago. Today while Fidel Castro handed over the reigns of power to his brother Raul, his influence is still real and his byline appears almost daily in the government newspaper Granma.

The Cuban government goes to great lengths to remind its citizens that it is the US embargo which is responsible for much of the country’s misery. Dusty signs all over the nation’s highways spread the propaganda of a half-century-old revolution while those very same fading posters are a reminder that Fidel Castro’s revolution is in much need of a face-lift of its own.

Much of the springtime speculation centered around the islands perceived inability to absorb a mass of new arrivals should the US administration go one step further and lift the embargo altogether. It was a strange logic. Two decades ago as the Berlin wall collapsed droves of western tourists ventured eastward to Hungary, Poland, then Czechoslovakia and eastern Germany. Any lack of hotel rooms was more than made up by little old ladies keen to rent their flats to those curious to see lands that had been all but sealed off to this kind of mass tourism for decades.

More important than a lack of infrastructure the US media seemed to forget to ask if there was enough political capital in Washington and Miami to make any real political change in its Cuba policy.

Slow changes within Cuba
Meanwhile the government of the communist island has already taken a plunge into the capitalist enterprise of allowing the development of a network of private home stays – or casa particolares – which themselves have become extremely popular. They have attracted a whole new demographic of tourists.

While the state has heavily taxed these entrepreneurs, the government nevertheless recognized the benefits of the dynamism of an entrepreneurial class. In addition, earlier this year the government also opened the island’s luxury resorts to Cuban citizens, finally allowing the country’s own inhabitants to benefit from the infrastructure that until this year was off limits even to those who could pay.

Those who claimed that Cuba is not ready for a mass of US tourists should that country chose to lift the embargo; may well simply be wrong, and are certainly missing the point. Cuba is well aware of the value of tourism to its economy, and just what a change in US tourism policy would mean. This nation has furiously developed hotels and resorts over the past two decades which today cater to primarily Canadian and European visitors. Just last week Cuba announced the latest tourism arrival figures in the communist paper Granma, quoting the tourism minister who revealed the arrival of some 2.4 million tourists this year. That is up 3.3 percent over last year, figures that are fueled by the addition of some 2,000 new hotel rooms catering to high-end visitors.

Over the past two decades along with its foreign development partners the island has ploughed away with the expansion of a network of all-inclusive resorts in Havana, Varadero, the island’s northern cays, around the eastern city of Holguin and the southern resort island of Cayo Largo.

For example, take the lush tropical setting of Cayo Santa Maria. This pristine cay at the western end of the Archipelago de Sabana-Camaguey is the idyllic setting of the new frontier of Cuban tourism. Tied to the island by a man-made causeway this is where you find Melia Las Dunas, one of several five-star hideaways set amidst pristine azure-blue beaches.

In Havana the Hotel Satarotoga sets a new standard of excellence for high-end business hotels on the island. This property sits just across from the city’s landmark Capitolio, and harks back to the suave 1930s when Cuban orchestras played their wildly popular ‘aires libres’ on the hotel’s terrace for local celebrities and socialites.

Habana Vieja undergoes restoration works
A short distance away in Habana Vieja, the historic district of the capital, you find a series of recently restored colonial-era buildings in what is a massive project spearheaded by the government-owned Habaguanex chain. As part of the ongoing restoration project the government has converted landmark colonial-era properties into thematic boutique-style hotels; each with its particular cache and charm.

Even today the eastern end of the established tourism Mecca of Varadero is lined with construction cranes and new development properties. While far from looking like a new Shanghai, the Cubans may well be taking their cues in the capitalist enterprise from their Chinese friends.

In retrospect accusations of unpreparedness for western tourist arrivals could easily have been levelled against Central European nations shortly before the fall of communism there two decades ago. For these countries the floodgates did open. It is likely that a similar scenario will play itself out in Cuba. As to exactly when; that is still an open question. Cubans are used to waiting.